Domain Loberger
Jean-Jacques et Céline Loberger
Built in the 1600s, the Loberger estate was a mixed farm until the 1990s, when Jean-Jacques took over. At that time, there were grapes on 4 hectares, cows, a hundred rabbits and “above all, asparagus”. Having developed a passion for the vine, Jean-Jacques opposed his father’s idea of becoming a cooperator and, with his diploma in hand, decided to become a winemaker.
If the beginnings are laborious, perseverance rewards him. The young man learned on the job and trained through exchanges with neighbouring winegrowers. At the age of 20, he decided to go organic. His father handed over the vineyard to his son who officially took over the reins of the estate in 1984. Jean-Jacques continued the conversion until he obtained Demeter certification in 2012. The surface area will gradually double from 4 to 8 hectares, including great growths and new terroirs.
More the type to refuse the classic schemes, Jean-Jacques continues his experiments of wine making by eliminating all inputs, including sulfites. With curiosity and caution, he observes the results, is careful not to create “deviant” wines and gains confidence while remaining humble.
Outside the cellar, the business also runs thanks to his sister Josiane, who works in the office, the help of his son and the presence of his daughter Céline, who will join the company in 2019. In charge of marketing, she also takes part in the work in the vineyard and draws on the experiences of her self-taught father and his winegrower friends to better understand wine-making. Her career path is the opposite of her father’s, who never left the estate: he learned his trade there, got married there and now makes wine there. Because at the time, “that’s how it was. On the contrary, the young woman chose to explore other territories before settling down: her course in international trade and her wine-making training in Angers led her to visit a large number of estates and discover other cultures, states of mind and ways of approaching wine.
Very different in character, father and daughter complement each other well. Céline appreciates Jean-Jacques’ commitment, “who always goes the extra mile”.
Today, at the Loberger estate, they no longer raise cows or rabbits, but a fine range of authentic and lively wines.
Laurie Wendenbaum
